Sardinia's north coast and the Strait of Bonifacio offer some of the most spectacular sailing in the Mediterranean. The La Maddalena National Park — a labyrinth of pink granite islands with extraordinary clear water — is matched only by the dramatic arrival at Bonifacio, whose medieval citadel towers over the entrance to a landlocked harbour carved into the limestone cliffs. This circular route crosses from Italy into France and back, combining two of the western Med's finest destinations in a single week.
Day by day
The route
Day 1
Arrive Portisco or Cannigione
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Olbia Airport is just 20 minutes away — one of the quickest transfers in Italy. Portisco and Cannigione are the main charter bases for the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena archipelago. Both marinas are well equipped and set in spectacular surroundings. Provision well before departing — the islands offer less choice. Dinner ashore in Cannigione village, where the Sardinian lamb and fresh pasta are exceptional.
Day 2
Portisco → Tavolara Island — 16nm
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Head south along the coast, passing through the stunning Gulf of Olbia to the dramatic island of Tavolara — a sheer limestone massif rising 564m from the sea, one of the most striking silhouettes in the western Mediterranean. Anchor in the bay of Spalmatore di Terra on the south side, with a white sand beach and water of astonishing clarity. The Ristorante da Tonino Re di Tavolara on shore is a legendary spot — book ahead.
Day 3
Tavolara → La Maddalena Archipelago (Caprera) — 21nm
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Sail north into the stunning La Maddalena National Park — an archipelago of seven main islands surrounded by over 50 smaller islets, all with extraordinary pink granite formations, turquoise shallows and pine forests. Anchor in one of Caprera's sheltered coves. Caprera is the island where Garibaldi spent his final years — his house is now a museum. The waters around the archipelago are some of the clearest in the entire Mediterranean.
Day 4
Caprera → Bonifacio, Corsica — 23nm
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The highlight of the week — cross the Strait of Bonifacio into France. Approaching Bonifacio by sea is one of the great arrivals in the Mediterranean: the medieval citadel appears to grow from the top of towering white limestone cliffs, with the harbour entrance a narrow slot through the rock. Once inside, a completely sheltered natural harbour. Walk the cobbled streets of the upper citadel, try the local Corsican charcuterie and a glass of Nielluccio wine. Overnight in Bonifacio Marina.
Day 5
Bonifacio → Lavezzi Islands — 8nm
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A short sail to the Lavezzi Islands — a protected Corsican nature reserve of rounded granite boulders and translucent lagoons just north of the strait. Anchor among the islets and spend the day swimming, snorkelling and exploring on foot. One of the most beautiful anchorages in the western Med, and wonderfully peaceful. Return to Bonifacio in the evening for a final dinner ashore, or overnight at anchor in the Lavezzi if conditions allow.
Day 6
Lavezzi Islands → Cannigione — 16nm
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Slip back south into Sardinia's Gulf of Arzachena to Cannigione — a relaxed, low-key town on the quieter western edge of the Costa Smeralda. The deep, sheltered gulf gives calm holding and easy provisioning, with good restaurants along the waterfront and the pink-granite hills of Gallura behind. A gentle penultimate night before the short hop back to base.
Day 7
Cannigione → Portisco — 6nm
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A gentle final sail south along the Costa Smeralda — passing Porto Cervo, the glamorous heart of the Aga Khan's legendary development, with its designer boutiques and superyachts. Stop for a swim in Cala di Volpe if time allows — one of the finest bays on the island. Check out by 09:00. Olbia Airport is 20 minutes from the marina.
Local tip: The Lavezzi Islands reserve requires you to anchor rather than moor — and the holding is excellent. Go on a weekday morning if you want the place largely to yourself.