Sailing Zadar & the Kornati Islands

Zadar Airport is a short 15-minute drive from the marina — the quickest transfer in Croatia. Zadar itself is one of the most underrated cities in the Adriatic: a peninsula of Roman ruins, medieval churches, Venetian walls and a genuinely local atmosphere. Alfred Hitchcock called it home to the most beautiful sunset in the world. Provision well and spend the evening exploring the old town. The Sea Organ — an architectural installation that uses wave energy to play music — is a short walk from the marina.

Head northwest into the outer islands — a world away from the busier resorts of Split and Hvar. Molat is a quiet, pine-covered island where time moves slowly. Anchor in Jaz Bay, a pristine cove reached by a short walk through the pine forests from the harbour. A small library in the village has thousands of books left by visiting sailors over the decades — a lovely tradition. Exceptionally clear water and almost total seclusion.

Sail down the sheltered inside of Dugi Otok — the Long Island — to Telašćica, a vast cliff-fringed natural bay at its southern tip, right on the edge of the Kornati. On the seaward side sheer cliffs drop over 150m; a short walk inland leads to the salt lake of Mir. It's a protected nature park in its own right, and the perfect gateway to the Kornati archipelago the next morning.

The centrepiece of the week. The Kornati archipelago — 140 islands and reefs in a labyrinth of dramatic karst scenery — is one of the most extraordinary sailing destinations in the Mediterranean. George Bernard Shaw described them as the place where "God, on the last day of Creation, desired to crown His work, and thus created the Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath." Moor to a buoy or anchor in one of the many sheltered bays. The park entry ticket is purchased at the entrance.

Spend a second day in the Kornati area, heading east to Žut — a larger, lusher island with a small marina and excellent anchorages in the surrounding bays. Pod Ražanj bay on the island's south side is a favourite — wonderfully sheltered with a small restaurant. The evening light across the Kornati from here is spectacular. A quiet, unhurried night at the edge of the national park.

Head north back towards Zadar, stopping at the island of Iž — a gentle, unhurried island of olive groves and vineyards, popular with local Croatians and almost unknown to foreign tourists. Veli Iž has a small marina, good tavernas and a character entirely its own. The island pottery tradition dates back centuries — the distinctive Iž pitchers make excellent gifts. A perfect penultimate night.

Final sail back to Zadar, with a possible swim stop on the beautiful island of Ugljan en route — its bay of Muline is a lovely, calm finale. Check out by 09:00. Zadar Airport is 15 minutes from the marina. If your flight allows time, Zadar's old town is well worth a final wander — the Roman forum, the Cathedral of St Anastasia, and the Sea Organ are all within a few minutes' walk.